You’ve probably heard friends, influencers, or even ads talk about “retinols.” The truth is that retinols are just one member of the retinoid family, Vitamin A derivatives that remain the gold standard in skin rejuvenation. Retinoids aren’t new. Dermatologists have prescribed them for decades, both for acne and for visible signs of aging. But what’s new and often misunderstood is the difference between the types, their effectiveness, and how tolerable they are for real skin in the real world.

Think of retinoids as a family tree. Some members are medical-grade, designed for conditions like severe acne or psoriasis. Others are cosmetic-grade, created to deliver visible improvements without prescription strength or side effects. The family includes cosmetic and prescription retinoids.

Cosmetic retinoids:

• Retinyl Palmitate – the mildest, often seen in “anti-aging” or brightening creams
• Retinol – the most common over-the-counter retinoid
• Retinaldehyde (Retinal) – one step closer to the active form, faster and stronger
• Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) – a new-generation retinoid designed for direct action

Prescription retinoids:

• Isotretinoin and Tretinoin – retinoic acid forms prescribed for severe acne, sometimes co-opted for anti-aging
• Adapalene – often used for acne
• Tazarotene – used primarily for psoriasis
  
  

If you’ve heard of “Tret” (short for Tretinoin), you’ve probably also seen the dramatic before-and-after results. Yes, they’re powerful. But here’s what rarely gets discussed: Prescription retinoids can be harsh. They often trigger redness, flaking, peeling, and a dreaded “purge” that can last 6–12 weeks. Some people never make it past this phase because their skin barrier simply can’t cope. If you’ve tried prescription Tretinoin, you know it can feel like your skin is staging a rebellion. Yes, the payoff can be real — but the journey is punishing.

That’s why, as a brand and research team, we do not recommend starting prescription retinoids without a dermatologist’s guidance. They have their place in medical skincare, but for everyday rejuvenation? The cosmetic-grade world has safer, smarter options.

This brings us back to cosmetic-grade retinoids: Retinyl Palmitate, Retinol, Retinaldehyde, and HPR. Here’s where the differences matter. Think of retinoids like a relay race. The baton needs to be passed down the line until it reaches the finish: retinoic acid, the only form that actually binds to receptors in your skin and sparks change. Here’s the conversion path: Retinyl Palmitate → Retinol → Retinaldehyde → Retinoic Acid

Retinyl Palmitate starts too far back in the race. Most of it never makes it to the finish line, which means weak results. So while it often shows up in “anti-aging” creams because it’s cheap and stable, it's more marketing than performance.

Retinol is the most widely used over-the-counter retinoid. It works — but it’s fragile. Exposure to air and light breaks it down quickly, which is why packaging matters. Even at its best, Retinol can still cause irritation, especially at higher strengths. Retinaldehyde (Retinal) is one step closer to retinoic acid. That makes it faster, effective at lower concentrations, and often gentler than Retinol. Still, it isn’t irritation-free — and it shares the same stability challenges. Both can be stabilized with encapsulation (a protective coating that keeps them potent until delivery). But this tech adds cost. And that’s why the best retinol or retinal serums are never cheap.